I first visited Mozambique in 2009, and it has stayed with me ever since. It sits in a part of the world I know well — the Indian Ocean coastline that follows naturally from Southern Africa — and yet it has remained, for many travellers, somewhere just beyond the edge of the map. A name that sounds exotic but somehow never quite makes the itinerary. That is changing. Mozambique is increasingly on the radar as an up-and-coming safari destination in its own right: Gorongosa National Park, one of Africa’s great conservation success stories, has seen wildlife return in extraordinary numbers and is firmly on my list to visit in the not-too-distant future. But it was the coast that first captured my heart, and having just returned from spending time exploring both the mainland at Vilanculos and Benguerra Island in the Bazaruto Archipelago, I can tell you that the coastal Mozambique experience is every bit as compelling as I remembered — and in some ways more so. I’d rather my clients were ahead of the curve than following it.

benguerra island vibrant blue sea and sand shoals — 📸 Flying over Benguerra. No filter - the colours have to be seen to be believed!

Getting There

Vilanculos is the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago — a small coastal town in southern Mozambique that serves as the jumping-off point for the islands, and increasingly a destination worth exploring in its own right. The journey from Johannesburg is straightforward: a short connecting flight brings you into Vilanculos, from where the islands are accessed by helicopter or speedboat transfer. It is an easy journey, and the moment you look down over that coastline — the Indian Ocean shifting from deep blue to every conceivable shade of turquoise over shallow sandbanks — you know immediately that you are somewhere special.

The Mainland: Vilanculos

Vilanculos is a small coastal town on the southern Mozambique coast and the main gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago, sitting roughly 700 kilometres north of Maputo. It is far more than a transit point — the town has a relaxed charm, a beautiful bay and a good range of activities in its own right. The local market, one of the oldest in the country, is worth a visit for its produce, spices and local atmosphere. On the water, the bay is ideal for kitesurfing, stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking and snorkelling, and dhow trips along the coast are a lovely way to spend an afternoon. Cultural tours taking in the town, an archaeological site on the beach and local villages are also available for those who want to go a little deeper. For most visitors, however, Vilanculos is the place where the islands begin — and the Bazaruto Archipelago is only a helicopter or speedboat transfer away.

The mainland beach properties at Vilanculos share a characteristic worth knowing before you travel: all are set on elevated ground above the beach, which means a climb down steps to reach the water. It is a small thing, but worth flagging for those less mobile clients who might find this challenging — and worth appreciating so that the island option, where the sea is literally at your doorstep, can be properly understood by comparison.

That said, the mainland properties I stayed in were genuinely impressive, and Vilanculos deserves its place in any Mozambique itinerary as far more than a transit point.

📸 Vilanculos’s famous red dunes rising out of the sea

Bahia MarBoutique Hotel is the closest property to Vilanculos town — you can see the town from the beach — and represents an excellent mid-range option. The rooms are lovely: well-equipped, airy and spacious, with a large pool that makes the most of the coastal setting. The food is great and it is a comfortable base and a very pleasant introduction to the Mozambique coast.

asDunas Lodge is, in my view, quite exceptional — and exceptionally good value for money. I was upgraded to the Iconic Suite, which was such a treat: beautifully furnished, utterly private, with a large pool and the kind of setting where you could very happily lose a week. The manager, Chelsie, and the team looked after us with genuine warmth and professionalism, the food was delicious, and I came away with real enthusiasm for this property.

Santorini Mozambique was a delight from start to finish, and I think it may be the most romantic property I visited on this trip. My villa – the one bedroom Vila na Colina - was beautiful — restful, exquisitely decorated and full of thoughtful touches, with an attention to detail that extended even to eco-friendly cotton buds. It was tucked away, had a private pool and would make the perfect honeymoon hideaway. Michael, who manages the property, was warmly welcoming, and the food was genuinely gorgeous — the lunch from the vegetable garden was a particular highlight. For a honeymoon or a special couples trip, Santorini is exactly the kind of place that exceeds expectations. It certainly exceeded mine.

The Island: Azura Benguerra

Benguerra Island sits within the Bazaruto Archipelago, a protected marine national park, and is accessed from Vilanculos by helicopter — a transfer that is, in itself, a moment. Looking down over the archipelago from the air, the scale and beauty of this marine environment becomes immediately apparent.

Azura Benguerra is a small, intimate property, and its greatest strength is that the villas sit directly on the beach — the Indian Ocean is quite literally steps from your door — and for couples in particular, this immediacy is part of what makes the experience so special. You can fall asleep to the sound of the water and wake to it. The villa - an Infinity Beach Villa - itself was beautifully appointed: spacious, thoughtfully designed and genuinely luxurious without being showy about it. The manager, Olivia, and her team were warm and professional throughout, and the food was excellent — varied, well-prepared and a pleasure at every meal.

What to Do

The activities at Azura centre on the extraordinary marine environment of the Bazaruto Archipelago, and rightly so. The snorkelling at Two Mile Reef was a highlight I hadn’t quite anticipated — we were in the water with turtles and an abundance of reef fish, in visibility that made the whole experience feel almost unreal. This is a world-class marine environment, and even guests who wouldn’t call themselves dedicated divers or snorkellers will find something extraordinary about simply being in that water.

The sunset dhow cruise was one of those travel experiences that entirely earns its reputation. Watching the sun drop into the Indian Ocean from a traditional wooden dhow, the Bazaruto coastline spread out around you, is quietly spectacular. We also paddle boarded — with varying degrees of success on my part — and walked along the beach to the laid back Peri Peri Beach Club for cocktails and a very pleasant lunch.

You can also go horse riding during a stay at Azura, take an island tour, have secluded beach picnics, go whale watching in season (June to December), the list goes on!

Who Is Mozambique Right For?

If you have already explored Southern or East Africa and are looking for something that extends or complements a safari itinerary with a genuinely extraordinary Indian Ocean experience, Mozambique belongs on your list. It is for the traveller who values seclusion over spectacle, who finds marine life as compelling as wildlife on land, and who is drawn to a destination that retains a real sense of discovery. It suits couples beautifully — honeymooners especially — and experienced travellers who are ready for something beyond the mainstream.

It is also, I should say, an outstanding choice for those who simply want one of the most beautiful coastal experiences in the world. No safari required.

Combining Mozambique with a Safari

The natural routing is via Johannesburg, which makes Mozambique a seamless extension to almost any Southern African safari. Botswana is an especially natural pairing — a week in the Okavango Delta or the Kalahari followed by four or five nights between Vilanculos and Benguerra Island covers almost every register of the African travel experience. Zimbabwe and Zambia work equally well. South Africa, particularly if you’re ending in Cape Town, is straightforward via a Johannesburg connection.

What you get from this combination is something genuinely hard to replicate: the full depth of a Southern African wildlife experience alongside one of the Indian Ocean’s most exceptional coastal destinations. Bush and sea, safari and island — it is, in my view, one of the great travel pairings.

My Verdict

I went back to Mozambique expecting to be impressed. I came home having had my expectations exceeded — which, after over 28 years of travelling in Africa, is not something I say lightly. The mainland properties at Vilanculos offer something for every budget and every kind of traveller, Azura Benguerra Island is a property I will recommend with real enthusiasm, and Mozambique as a destination has, I think, very much arrived.

If you’d like to discuss how Mozambique might fit into your Africa itinerary, I’d love to hear from you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Mozambique a good safari destination?

Mozambique is an emerging safari destination with a compelling and rapidly developing wildlife offering. Gorongosa National Park in particular has undergone one of Africa’s most remarkable conservation recoveries, with wildlife populations returning in significant numbers. For most visitors, however, Mozambique is primarily a coastal and marine destination — and one of the finest in the world.

Where is the best place to stay in Vilanculos?

The Vilanculos coast offers properties across a range of styles and budgets. Santorini is exceptional for couples and honeymooners, with beautiful villa accommodation and an intimate atmosphere. asDunas offers outstanding quality and value, with spacious private suites and a wonderful team. Bahia Mar is an excellent mid-range option close to town. All mainland properties are set above the beach, so guests should expect steps down to the water.

When is the whale watching season in Mozambique?

Whales can be seen passing through the waters of Mozambique between June and December, with humpback whales most active in the Bazaruto Archipelago between July and October. Southern right whales are best seen close to shore in the southern part of the Mozambique Channel from June to December. July is a particularly rewarding month, when there is an overlap of whales, dolphins and whale sharks all present simultaneously. Most properties in the Bazaruto Archipelago, including Azura Benguerra, can arrange whale watching excursions during this period.

What is Benguerra Island like?

Benguerra Island is part of the Bazaruto Archipelago, a protected marine national park off the coast of Vilanculos. It is a small, unspoiled island with extraordinary marine life, powdery white beaches and a handful of intimate, high-quality properties. Azura Benguerra is one of the finest, with beach villas that sit directly on the Indian Ocean. Activities centre on the marine environment — snorkelling, diving, dhow cruises and paddleboarding — and the overall experience is one of genuine seclusion and natural beauty.

How do you get to Benguerra Island?

Benguerra Island is reached from Vilanculos by helicopter or speedboat. Vilanculos itself is served by connecting flights from Johannesburg, making it an easy addition to any Southern African itinerary.

Can you combine Mozambique with a safari?

Absolutely — and it makes for one of the most complete Africa itineraries available. Mozambique pairs naturally with Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and South Africa, all of which connect easily via Johannesburg. A typical combination might be seven to ten nights on safari followed by four or five nights on the beach.

What is the best time to visit Mozambique?

The best time to visit the Mozambique coast is during the dry season, from April to November. July to October offers the most reliable weather and is also the best period for whale shark sightings in the Bazaruto Archipelago. The wet season runs from December to March and brings high humidity and the possibility of tropical storms, though some properties offer reduced rates during this period.

Is Mozambique suitable for a honeymoon?

Mozambique is an outstanding honeymoon destination. The combination of extraordinary beaches, intimate properties, world-class marine activities and a genuine sense of discovery makes it ideal for couples looking for something beyond the mainstream. Santorini at Vilanculos and Azura Benguerra Island are both particularly well suited to honeymooners.

Mozambique: Vilanculos and Benguerra Island