Madagascar Holidays
The eighth continent — where 90% of wildlife exists nowhere else on earth, and every corner of the island holds something extraordinary.
Why Madagascar?
Madagascar is not simply another African destination. It is, quite literally, a world apart. Separated from mainland Africa around 160 million years ago, then later from India around 90 million years ago, this island the size of France has evolved in complete isolation — producing a wildlife community so distinct, so strange, and so extraordinary that biologists often refer to it as the eighth continent.
Around 90% of Madagascar's wildlife is found nowhere else on earth. The lemurs — over 100 species ranging from the mouse lemur, the world's smallest primate, to the indri, whose haunting, echoing call carries for several kilometres through the rainforest — are the headline act, but they are far from the only one. Madagascar holds two-thirds of the world's chameleon species, including the smallest and largest known. It holds the fossa — a cat-like carnivore that is the island's apex predator. It holds the baobab — six of the world's eight baobab species grow here and nowhere else. Every ecosystem, from the spiny desert of the south to the rainforest of the east to the dry deciduous forest of the west, holds species that exist in no other country.
For travellers, Madagascar is a destination that demands a certain kind of mindset — patient, curious, willing to embrace the unexpected and the imperfect. Roads are challenging, logistics require planning, and the infrastructure is less polished than more established safari destinations. But those who go almost universally describe it as one of the most extraordinary places they have ever been. It is a destination I offer to a particular kind of traveller, and those who choose it are rarely disappointed.
Lucie's Take on Madagascar: I had some of the best, strangest and most fun experiences of my travelling life in Madagascar - climbing through the spiky Tsingy, squidging through mud whilst taking a very active part in a mangrove rehabilitation project, making chocolate at a workshop in Antananarivo. There is so much to do here, and so much variety, of culture and of wildlife - it really is an outstanding and extraordinary place to explore whether you’re on a budget or looking for some of the most luxurious places to stay in the world!
Where to Go in Madagascar
Madagascar's regions are so ecologically distinct that they can feel like entirely separate destinations. Most itineraries focus on two or three areas, typically combining a rainforest park, a dry-forest or canyon experience, and a coastal finale.
Antananarivo: Your Arrival in Madagascar
Almost every Madagascar itinerary begins and ends in Antananarivo, known locally as 'Tana'. Perched across a series of hills, the capital's old quarter of narrow lanes, wooden balconies, and hillside markets is worth a night either side of your trip. A highlight I recommend to every client is a hands-on Malagasy cooking experience or chocolate making workshop with a local chef — a wonderful, informal introduction to the country's history and flavours before heading out to the regions. There are some lovely hotels and good restaurants, the French colonial history left a legacy of fine cuisine!
Menabe & the Avenue of the Baobabs
The Avenue of the Baobabs near Morondava is one of the most photographed natural landscapes on earth — a dirt road flanked by towering ancient baobab trees, some over 800 years old, their swollen trunks glowing amber in the golden hour light. It is a genuinely extraordinary sight, and the practical reality — that it is a working rural road used by ox-carts and cyclists — adds to rather than diminishes the experience. Before reaching the Avenue, most itineraries build in a morning exploring the Menabe region's protected mangroves by canoe — excellent for birdwatching, and often combined with traditional Sakalava-style crab fishing — followed by an atmospheric picnic lunch in a local village, which may feature dancing!
The Kirindy Forest nearby is one of the best places in Madagascar to see the fossa — the island's elusive cat-like apex predator — as well as giant jumping rats, multiple lemur species including Verreaux's sifaka, and an extraordinary range of nocturnal wildlife on night walks. Morondava itself is a pleasant coastal town and the gateway for the journey north to Tsingy de Bemaraha, one of Madagascar's most spectacular geological formations — a forest of razor-sharp limestone pinnacles that is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tsingy de Bemaraha: Madagascar's Stone Forest
The Tsingy de Bemaraha is one of the most extraordinary landscapes anywhere in Africa or the Indian Ocean — a vast plateau of razor-sharp limestone pinnacles, some rising up to 100 metres, carved over millions of years as ancient seabed limestone was dissolved along fracture lines by rainwater and groundwater. The word "tsingy" comes from the Malagasy for walking on tiptoes, which tells you most of what you need to know about the terrain. Exploring the Grand Tsingy circuit involves via ferrata sections, ladders, suspension bridges and narrow rock corridors, threading between the pinnacles and through cool underground caverns. It is physical and, in places, genuinely exposed, but not technically difficult, and the reward is unlike anywhere else on the island. The gentler Petit Tsingy circuit — sometimes called the 'small Tsingy' — covers similar terrain at a lower level, without the harnessed sections, and suits travellers who want the experience without the exposure. The park is also home to several resident lemur species, so a guided nature walk here is as much a wildlife outing as a geological one.
This is one of the most remote of Madagascar's highlights, and the way you reach it makes a real difference to the trip. The park is only accessible in the dry season, roughly April to November. My preferred way in, and the one I have used myself, is a private charter flight from Morondava directly to the Bekopaka airstrip — around an hour in the air, over a genuinely spectacular stretch of western Madagascar, in place of what would otherwise be an 8 to 10-hour 4x4 journey on rough roads with two river ferry crossings by barge. It turns a gruelling logistical day into a scenic one, and I build it into most of the itineraries I plan for this reason. The overland route is still there for travellers who want to experience the journey itself, or who are travelling on a tighter budget, but for most clients I recommend flying in and saving the time and energy for the Tsingy itself. Once at Bekopaka, I suggest two nights: a full day exploring the Grand and/or Petit Tsingy circuits, plus a morning or afternoon canoe trip along the Manambolo River, which winds through a dramatic canyon on the park's southern boundary — a wonderfully calm, scenic contrast to the physical exertion of the Tsingy circuits, and a good way to spot birdlife along the water. Along the Manambolo Gorge, keep an eye on the cliff faces as you paddle by — tucked into ledges and cave openings high above the water are ancient tombs belonging to the Vazimba, Madagascar's legendary first inhabitants, said to have arrived by boat long before the ancestors of today's Sakalava people. Local tradition holds that the Vazimba deliberately chose these inaccessible, elevated resting places, and the sites remain considered fady — sacred and taboo — by the Sakalava communities who still live along the river today. Guides will usually point them out as you pass beneath, one of the quieter, more atmospheric moments of the canoe trip.
Nosy Be & the Coast
Nosy Be is Madagascar's premier beach destination — a lush, fragrant island off the northwest coast, known for its clear water, excellent diving and snorkelling, and the extraordinary spectacle of humpback whales that pass through the channel between July and September. It also holds the world's smallest chameleon (Brookesia micra, found on a tiny nearby island) and extraordinary marine biodiversity including whale sharks, manta rays, and sea turtles.
Most Madagascar itineraries end at Nosy Be — it is the perfect decompression after days of trekking through rainforest and navigating challenging roads, and the contrast between the island's forest interior and its Indian Ocean coast is one of the great satisfactions of a Madagascar trip. A particular highlight from Nosy Be is a marine safari out to Nosy Iranja, a pair of tiny islands linked by a sandbank at low tide, in search of whale sharks, dolphins and turtles — with the chance, at the right time of year, of witnessing turtle nesting. Many operators offer this as an overnight beach camping excursion, which makes for one of the most memorable single nights of a Madagascar trip.
Nosy Ankao & Miavana: The Ultimate Luxury Add-On
For travellers wanting to finish a Madagascar trip in real style, Nosy Ankao — a private, reef-fringed island off the far northeast coast — is home to Miavana, one of the most exceptional lodges anywhere in the Indian Ocean. Reached by scheduled flight to Diego Suarez followed by a short helicopter transfer, Miavana is worlds away from the rest of Madagascar logistically, while still offering forest walks and lemur trekking on the mainland, alongside diving, fishing, and simply outstanding beaches. It works beautifully as a final few nights after a more adventurous western or central itinerary — a proper decompression before the flight home, and an experience in its own right.
Beyond this route, Madagascar's eastern rainforests and southern canyon country are also extraordinary, and worth building into a longer or first Madagascar itinerary:
Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (East)
Andasibe is the most accessible of Madagascar's national parks — a few hours' drive east of the capital Antananarivo — and the best place on earth to hear and see the indri, the largest living lemur. The indri's call is one of the great wildlife sounds — a haunting, mournful wail that echoes across the rainforest canopy in the early morning, and can carry for up to three kilometres. Finding the group that made it, and then watching the family in the trees overhead, is an experience visitors describe for years afterwards.
Andasibe holds 11 lemur species in total, including the black-and-white ruffed lemur and the diademed sifaka in the adjacent Mantadia section. Night walks reveal a further cast of nocturnal species — mouse lemurs, woolly lemurs, and the extraordinary leaf-tailed geckos that hide in plain sight on tree bark during the day. The park is also superb for birding and chameleon spotting.
Most visitors spend two nights at Andasibe — enough to do a morning guided walk for the indri, an afternoon of the park trails, and a night walk. It combines naturally with Ranomafana to the south on a classic central circuit.
Ranomafana National Park (South-East)
Ranomafana is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Madagascar's finest rainforest parks, situated in the southeastern highlands. It is the only reliable place in the world to see the golden bamboo lemur — a species discovered as recently as 1986, which feeds almost exclusively on the shoots of giant bamboo and tolerates cyanide levels in its diet that would be lethal to most mammals. The park also holds the greater bamboo lemur, the red-bellied lemur, and 12 other lemur species, alongside extraordinary reptile and bird diversity.
Ranomafana's terrain is steep and its forest dense — walks here are more demanding than Andasibe but reward the effort with a wilder, more immersive atmosphere. The park village of Ranomafana also offers thermal hot springs, a reminder that this part of Madagascar sits on geologically active ground.
Isalo National Park (South)
Isalo is Madagascar's most dramatic landscape — a vast sandstone massif in the south of the island, eroded over millions of years into labyrinthine canyons, natural swimming pools fed by clear streams, and sweeping plateau views. It is the place most reminiscent of a classic desert park, though the wildlife is entirely Malagasy: ring-tailed lemurs sunbathing on rocks, Verreaux's sifaka dancing between spiny plants, and paradise flycatchers in the riparian vegetation.
Isalo works best as a trekking destination — half-day and full-day canyon walks are the primary activity, with the natural pools providing welcome swimming breaks in the heat. It sits naturally on the RN7 route south from Antananarivo and combines with the surrounding spiny forest and the coast at Ifaty for a classic southern Madagascar circuit.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Madagascar?
Madagascar's climate varies dramatically between regions — the east coast receives rain year-round, the west has a pronounced dry season, and the south is semi-arid. Timing depends on which areas you are visiting.
| Region | Jan–Mar | Apr–Jun | Jul–Oct | Nov–Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hot / Wet Season | Transitional / Shoulder | Dry Season Peak | Early Rains | |
| Andasibe (East) | Hot and very wet. Indri calling year-round. Trails very muddy. Fewer visitors but challenging access. | Wet season easing. Lush rainforest. Lemurs active. Good value and quieter than peak. | Best time. Drier trails, cooler temperatures. Indri most vocal and active. Excellent wildlife. | Short rains begin. Still good — lemurs remain active. Fewer visitors than July–Sept. |
| Ranomafana (South-East) | Wet season — golden bamboo lemur and other species active but trails slippery. Atmospheric forest. | Transitional. Trails drying. Good lemur sightings. Excellent birding continues. | Peak season. Best trail conditions. All lemur species including golden bamboo lemur. Excellent birding. | Rains beginning. Still good wildlife. Atmospheric — mist in the forest canopy. |
| Morondava / Baobabs (West) | Wet season in the interior. Baobabs surrounded by flooded rice fields — very photogenic. | Transitional. The Avenue of Baobabs accessible. Kirindy Forest excellent for fossa and nocturnal lemurs. | Peak season. Avenue of Baobabs at golden-hour sunset is iconic. Kirindy: fossa, sifaka, mouse lemurs. | Early rains. Baobabs still spectacular. Kirindy accessible. Good value shoulder season. |
| Isalo NP (South) | Hot — often over 40°C. Some trails closed. Canyon landscapes dramatic with rains. | Cooling down. Excellent for trekking. Ring-tailed lemurs and sifaka active. Very good conditions. | Peak season. Best trekking. Ring-tailed lemurs in canyon pools. Verreaux's sifaka. Dramatic dry landscapes. | Short rains beginning. Still excellent. Ring-tailed lemurs vocal. Quieter than peak. |
| Nosy Be (Coast) | Hot, humid, occasional cyclone risk in Jan–Mar. Still beautiful. Whale sharks present. | Shoulder season. Ideal beach weather. Diving and snorkelling excellent. Quieter and good value. | Prime season. July–Sept: humpback whales. Clear seas, excellent diving. Cooler breezes. | Short rains. Still warm. Good beach weather. Festive season busy in December. |
Is a Uganda Safari Right for You?
Uganda is not a destination for everyone — and that is part of what makes it special for those who do go.
Uganda is ideal if you want to...
Trek mountain gorillas — the most profound wildlife encounter most people will ever have
Combine gorillas with chimpanzees for an extraordinary primate-focused safari
Experience genuinely uncrowded parks with a real sense of discovery
Go beyond the well-worn East African circuit to somewhere most people have never been
Combine wildlife with dramatic landscapes — the Nile, the Rift Valley, the Virunga volcanoes
Support conservation directly — permit fees fund both gorilla protection and local community programmes
You might consider alternatives if...
You want classic open plains game viewing with high big cat density — Kenya or Tanzania is better
You are travelling with children under 15 (the minimum age for gorilla trekking)
You have very limited time — Uganda's parks are spread across the country and a good itinerary needs at least 8–10 days
Physical fitness is a concern — gorilla trekking involves steep forest hiking that can be strenuous
Combining Uganda with Other Destinations
Uganda + Kenya
A natural combination for those who want to pair the intimacy of Uganda's primate experiences with Kenya's classic open-plains wildlife. Fly from Entebbe to Nairobi (under two hours) and connect to the Masai Mara or the conservancies. Its also possible to do this circuit in reverse — starting with the Mara migration and finishing with the gorillas.
Uganda + Tanzania
For those who want the most comprehensive East African wildlife experience, Uganda's primates and Tanzania's plains safari are an outstanding combination. Most routing goes via Nairobi or Dar es Salaam, and the contrast — dense mountain forest versus vast open savannah — could hardly be more complete.
Uganda + Rwanda
Rwanda's Volcanoes National Park shares the same Virunga mountain gorilla population as Uganda's Mgahinga, and the two countries complement each other well. Rwanda's gorilla permits cost $1,500 per person — almost double Uganda's — but the infrastructure is slicker, the lodges are world class, and the country offers golden monkey tracking and Nyungwe chimpanzees alongside the gorillas. A Uganda-Rwanda combination gives you gorilla trekking in two different settings, along with Akagera National Park for classic game viewing on the Rwanda side.
Planning Your Uganda Safari with Lucie
Uganda requires a specific kind of planning — permits must be secured well in advance, the parks need to be sequenced carefully to avoid unnecessarily long drives, and the choice between Bwindi sectors can make a significant difference to the overall experience.
I have first-hand knowledge of Uganda's parks and lodges and genuine enthusiasm for this destination. Every Uganda itinerary I build is designed around you — your fitness level, your must-have experiences, your budget — with permits booked, flights coordinated, and every detail handled so that all you have to do is show up!
Practical Information for Uganda
Visas & Entry
UK passport holders require a visa to enter Uganda. The Uganda eVisa must be applied for online in advance at visas.immigration.go.ug — visas are not issued on arrival. Cost is $50 USD for a single-entry tourist visa, valid for 90 days. Allow at least 5–7 working days for processing, though most applications are approved sooner. Your passport must be valid for at least six months from your date of entry. A yellow fever vaccination certificate is mandatory for all visitors aged one and over — you will be asked for it at immigration.
N.B: Always check the Uganda Directorate of Citizenship and Immigration Control website for the most current requirements: visas.immigration.go.ug
Health & Vaccinations
Yellow fever vaccination is a legal entry requirement for Uganda — carry your vaccination certificate (yellow card) and ensure it is valid. Malaria is present throughout Uganda, including in the parks, and antimalarial medication is strongly recommended. Consult a travel health clinic at least 6–8 weeks before departure. Other recommended vaccinations typically include hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus. Gorilla trekkers should note that if you show any signs of illness — cough, cold, fever — on the day of the trek, you will not be permitted to trek. This protects the gorillas from human-transmissible disease.
Getting There
Most UK flights to Uganda route via Nairobi (Kenya Airways, British Airways codeshare), Kigali (RwandAir), Amsterdam (KLM), or Doha (Qatar Airways) to Entebbe International Airport on the shores of Lake Victoria. Journey time is typically 10–13 hours. Domestic connections within Uganda are by road or charter flight — I coordinate all transfers and internal logistics as part of your itinerary.
Physical Fitness & Gorilla Trekking
Gorilla trekking is a genuine physical challenge — Bwindi's terrain is steep, the vegetation is dense, and you may be walking for several hours on uneven ground. That said, people of a wide range of fitness levels complete treks successfully every day. Porters are strongly recommended and cost around $15–20, payable locally. Trekking poles are available to borrow or hire at the trailhead. The minimum age is 15. If mobility is a concern, do discuss it with me when planning — some gorilla groups are known to range at lower altitudes and make for easier treks.
Currency & Money
Uganda's currency is the Ugandan Shilling (UGX). US dollars are widely accepted in lodges and for major expenses, but local currency is useful for tips, porters, and smaller purchases. ATMs are available in Kampala and Entebbe, but less reliable in remote areas. Most lodges accept credit cards. Gorilla permit fees are paid in USD. Tips for guides, trackers, and porters are customary and appreciated — I'll provide guidance on appropriate amounts for your itinerary.
Uganda Safari: Frequently Asked Questions
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Gorilla trekking permits cost $800 USD per person for foreign non-residents during peak season (June–October and December–February). The Uganda Wildlife Authority introduced low-season discounts in 2026: permits are reduced to $600 USD for April, May, and November. Only eight trekkers are allowed per gorilla group per day, and peak season permits sell out months in advance — book as early as possible. N.B. Info correct June 2026.
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Gorilla trekking involves hiking in steep, dense mountain forest and can take anywhere from 30 minutes to six hours depending on where the gorilla group is ranging that day. People of a wide range of fitness levels complete treks successfully, but a reasonable level of fitness and mobility is needed. Porters are available to carry bags and provide physical support on difficult terrain, and are strongly recommended. The minimum age for gorilla trekking is 15.
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Gorilla trekking is possible year-round — the gorillas are always there. The dry seasons (June–October and December–February) offer the best trekking conditions: drier trails, clearer views through the forest, and more comfortable hiking. The wet season (March–May, November) means muddier trails and heavier rain gear, but also lower permit prices, fewer visitors, and a lush, atmospheric forest. The gorilla encounter itself is equally extraordinary at any time of year.
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Absolutely — and I'd always recommend it. A classic Uganda circuit combines Bwindi gorilla trekking in the southwest with chimpanzee tracking in Kibale Forest, a boat cruise and game drives in Queen Elizabeth National Park, and the dramatic Murchison Falls in the north. This itinerary takes around 10–14 days and gives you an extraordinary breadth of experience — from dense mountain forest to open savannah and the Nile.
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Both countries offer mountain gorilla trekking in the same Virunga ecosystem — Rwanda in Volcanoes National Park, Uganda in Bwindi and Mgahinga. Rwanda's permit costs $1,500 per person (compared to Uganda's $800 in peak season), but Rwanda offers a shorter, generally easier trek in a smaller, more accessible park with outstanding lodge infrastructure. Uganda's Bwindi is wilder, more remote, and more physically demanding, with a larger gorilla population across 17 habituated groups. Many clients choose Uganda for its better value and more immersive experience; others prefer Rwanda's infrastructure and ease. Both are exceptional.
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Uganda is generally considered a safe destination for tourists. The national parks are well managed, the country has a well-established tourism infrastructure, and violent crime against tourists is rare. The areas bordering South Sudan and the Democratic Republic of Congo in the far north and west warrant more caution — but these are not standard safari areas. Always check the UK Foreign Office travel advice at gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/uganda before you travel.
Ready to Plan Your Uganda Safari?
Whether the gorillas are the whole point, or the starting point for a broader East African adventure, I'd love to help you plan it.
Get in touch for a no-obligation conversation. I'll talk you through the permit booking process, help you choose the right Bwindi sector, and put together an itinerary that makes the most of every day in this remarkable country.